Rick,
I remember when I use to surf Pipe, Log Cabins, and Waimea that no matter how bad you got punished out there it was the wave that you conquered with your buddies watching. That always brought me back for more punishment.
I still don't know how Greg Knoll took off with a long board at Pipe. It was hard enough on a 6'8" board at 12 to 15 foot pipe with a lot of North in the swell. It was like standing on a roof of a 30 foot building and it would just fall out beneath you.
Brings back some memories
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