Photo Of The Day!!!

[C. Moore]

Rick,

I remember when I use to surf Pipe, Log Cabins, and Waimea that no matter how bad you got punished out there it was the wave that you conquered with your buddies watching. That always brought me back for more punishment.

I still don't know how Greg Knoll took off with a long board at Pipe. It was hard enough on a 6'8" board at 12 to 15 foot pipe with a lot of North in the swell. It was like standing on a roof of a 30 foot building and it would just fall out beneath you.

Brings back some memories

[ricki]

Hey Chris,

That is some intense stuff. Were you ever bounced off the rock bottom at Pipeline? Your analogy of standing on a three story building as it collapses beneath you is telling.

Bet you guys get swells like this frequently off the Bay area. Well, maybe miles out in the Gulf during hurricanes?

Just came across an interesting clip with some historical big, massive wave footage from Hawaii titled "Greg Knoll Legacy." He definitely is the man.

[C. Moore]

Rick,

I have a nice scar on my back from collapsing a lung out at pipe one day. Funny thing is I don't remember which wave it was that caused a bleb on my lung to burst. When I got home that night I had a hard time breathing and I felt air bubbles under my skin every time I took a breath. Went to Tripler Army Medical Hospital and 60% of my left lung had collapsed. I always wore a helmet when I surfed pipe, I saw plenty of guys hitting their head on the reef there. Still good times and lots of vivid memories.

[ricki]

Hey Chris,

Yow, that was some impact to rupture a bleb. Worry about bleb ruptures, if present, causing a pneumnothorax in diving. That is some intense surfing. Do you have any photos of you riding some larger waves in Hawaii? Sounds like prime POD content.

[C. Moore]

Originally Posted by RickI

Hey Chris,

Yow, that was some impact to rupture a bleb. Worry about bleb ruptures, if present, causing a pneumnothorax in diving. That is some intense surfing. Do you have any photos of you riding some larger waves in Hawaii? Sounds like prime POD content.

The photos I have a from a far distance. Underwater cameras weren't cheap back then and then trying to convince a friend to swim out in large surf to take pics of me was hard to find. I do have an incredible pic of me body surfing at Sandy's on Oahu's east side. I will find it and post it soon.

[ricki]

Great shot, that's what I'm talking about! Please do put up the other body surfing shot when you find it. Although, I find it easier to relate to than surfing Pipeline and Waimea. Have you ever done gymnastics while body surfing? Forward flips over the falls to where you ride out on your back feet first, spins, riding on your back to somersault to feet forward, etc.. Fun stuff until you take too much water up your nose.